This giant orc Warlord is from Reaper Miniatures. He is massive and so he counts as two orcs in one. My six to a base rule works out as if they are small Goblins, they get an extra figure or two. If they are giant warriors, well then they get one less. This is to keep the fighting value of the base the same visually.
Plastic Warlord Games orcs with green stuff heads and an old plastic GW banner bring up the rear. Also on this base is the classic standard bearer for Harboth’s Black mountain boys. Classic! No point hanging onto these precious opp models, get them painted and use them I say.
It appears my years in Art college weren’t wasted after all. Subconsciously when basing these brutes, I arranged them in such a way that the surrounding orcs weapons help guide your eye on to the leader of the piece. Twenty five years later I finally got it right...
Plastic axes were stuck on the leader’s helmet to give him a kind of orcy centurion look. This is influenced by the films I have to say and has a nice brutal look to it.
The Elf head on the standard was a nice find, however the pole was really thin and bendy. I reenforced this by adding a green stuff banner which really helped. I tore holes in it and made it look very tattered and the result was very pleasing.
The orc above with the mace was made from a Fire forge Sergeant’s body, oathmark goblin arms, warlord games orc head and green stuff mask. He also has a plastic cloak from somewhere too. A real jumble of bits and pieces. I think here lies the real fun of this project, using parts to create unique figures. It’s very rewarding and I have to say becomes very addictive, in fact once you start it’s hard to stop.
Orcy spears and pole arms can be made by cutting off spears and sticking on naggaity goblin swords. Obviously this works better with plastics and plastic glue. I have found that once the glue has melted the two bits together the weapons are quite durable. The spear shaft will bend rather than the sword break off.
Again the arrangement of positions helps to draw your eye into the centre of the piece. I surprise myself with this arty bullsh@t.
TIPS.
The motley crew. Earth brown paint was stippled over these guys to give them a real dirty look. Lots of brown washes of various shades, green washes, black washes, in fact just go crazy with colour washes, you can’t really go wrong. Once a fine metal dry brush goes over the top, it all looks good and gives the armour a grungy look.
Flesh wash is good for rusty armour so put patches of that here and there. If you have any bronze looking armour or shields, try some green wash on that too. Mix washes together to make the grungiest washes. I have a pot labelled ‘magic mix’ where I have mixed black with brown ink, this is great for orc skin, armour, weapons... well everything really. Just slap it on all over. It even smells bad because the tap water used in the mix has gone off, every time you open the orc shading pot... you get the orc!.
Give the kit bashing a go, it’s great fun and you will create something unique. Just because you have bought a plastic box set, don’t be scared to mix it up with another of a different make. Single sprues of Dark Age/medieval plastics can be bought on eBay for under a fiver. I use these to try and test things out, if I really like the results I will commit to buying a whole box. Plastics are a lot cheaper than lead so there is room to buy and try out different options without busting the purse strings..
Create me an army worthy of Mordor!
5 comments:
Your orcs Sir are briliant!
Lovely jubbly.
Sweet!
Ogron Foulbreath Orc Champion, I remember paying the princely sum of fifty pence for him.
Are yes, that’s him. He is a lovely figure and certainly screams champion to me.
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